Chaplain truescale conversion underway

The red line shows where eye level is and how much I need to raise the new model to match it. It's not much, but I feel like it makes a big difference in the final look of the model. Right now, I have the new model held together with that sticky poster tack stuff until I can figure out exactly what needs to be done.

I bought this model knowing I was going to scale him up, but I wasn't sure how until now. Here's what I figured out along with the trick I'm using to hide the seam.

All this work for a quarter of an inch

The biggest thing I wanted to accomplish was to increase the height of the new Chaplain so his eyes were the same height as my original Chaplain. That meant extending him about a quarter inch (about 7mm). I didn't realize how low his head sat inside his armour until I compared them and actually figured out where his eye level was.

Making the cut

I decided to cut the torso right below the arms. This will make it easier to attach them later on and they'll hide some of the conversion once they're in place. I managed to cut just above the trinkets on his back so I should only need to resculpt the cord holding them there.

This highly technical drawing shows two examples of filling in a gap with greenstuff. The correct way (on the right) is the best way to fill a gap and hide the seam between two flat surfaces.

The best way to fill in a gap with greenstuff

I'm not sure where I learned this trick, but it works. I've used it before and when done properly, the seam is invisible. I should preface this by saying this approach is for filling a gap between two flat surfaces. There are better ways for filling gaps between uneven surfaces.

Most people will try and fill in a gap between two pieces using the approach on the left. The problem is that both pieces have a sharp edges and there's no way you're going to be able to match both of those edges perfectly. 

Unless you overfill the gap with greenstuff and then go back and sand down the surface to match the height of both edges perfectly, you'll see the seam. In addition, you usually end up doing more damage trying to sand down the excess greenstuff.

The best way is to do what's shown on the right side.

Round the edges of both pieces being attached before filling in the gap. I think most people don't do this because it's counterintuitive to remove more material from a model when you're trying to fill in a gap. 

By rounding the edges though, you create a small area that you can feather the greenstuff outward and match the edges perfectly. You don't have a hard edge to match to, you just fade out the greenstuff until it blends in perfectly.

If you go back up and look at the first picture, you can see I've already rounded the edges of the gap. It doesn't take much, you just want to get rid of the sharp edges on the existing pieces.

Some additional filling for good measure

This probably isn't necessary, but I don't want to chance it. Since I'm lifting the front part of the model up, the legs are exposed more than they were originally. There are two holes in the legs and a portion of his hips that I'll fill in with greenstuff.

If I leave them, it'll be my luck that you can see them when I reattach the torso.


The last modification was an easy one. When I lifted his torso into its new position, his hip plates got in the way of the skulls hanging on the front. Prior to lifting him, the skulls were below them and out of the way. I just needed to cut them back.

I feel good about this one. It's not as much work as I imagined.

The real trick is going to be painting him.
I've already decided on subassemblies not because I want to paint every single detail, but because I want to make painting him as easy as possible. I just have to figure out the right order.